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Hearts and Arrows, is it possible in a princess cut?


May 9

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“I’ve been shopping for engagement rings for a while now. I’m really sold on the idea of a hearts and arrows round diamond. In fact, I was just about to pull the trigger on one of the new Black by Brian Gavin hearts and arrows diamonds. But then, I overheard my girlfriend talking with her sister about a friend’s engagement ring. It seems like she really prefers the square look of a princess cut diamond. So, I’m wondering about hearts and arrows, is it possible in princess cut?”

hearts patter in a round diamondHearts & Arrows Round vs Princess cut diamonds:

Before we go much further, let me simply say that it’s not possible to produce hearts and arrows princess cut diamonds. The facet structure of a princess cut diamond, simply does not lend itself to the creation of a hearts and arrows pattern.

The facet structure of a round and princess cut diamond are completely different. A round diamond has 8 pavilion main facets on the lower half of the diamond. These are the facets which create the arrows pattern. But the light reflecting off the pavilion facets is also what creates the hearts pattern. You can see how this works in the image to the left. Look how the light reflecting off the pavilion main in the 12 o’clock position, splits apart to create one half of each heart.

Why Princess Cut Diamonds don’t exhibit hearts:

Whereas a princess cut diamond has chevron facets, which create an entirely different pattern of reflections within the diamond. The pavilion facet on a princess cut diamond, creates the X-pattern visible in the center.

The chevron facets are the 3 V-shape rows of facets which extend outward from the pavilion main. Brian Gavin has conducted extensive research into princess cut light performance, and determined that 3 chevron facets create the best balance of sparkle factor. Plus it ensures even distribution of the sparkle throughout the body of the diamond.

The Brian Gavin Princess cut diamond distinguishes itself from other ideal princess cut diamonds, in several ways. The first thing you’ll notice is that they feature 3 chevron facets. The second is that the width of the pavilion main and chevron facets is relatively the same. This is because it creates an even distribution of light (sparkle) across the diamond.

Whereas, a lot of ideal princess cut diamonds are cut with a broader pavilion main. This seems to create more of a flatter look in the middle of the diamond. And of course, every diamond is optimized to maximize the volume of light return and sparkle.

Hearts & Arrows Cushion vs Princess cut diamond:

signature cushion hearts and arrows vs princess cut diamondMany people who prefer square looking diamonds, love the look of the Brian Gavin Signature Cushion cut diamond. Which does exhibit a very nice pattern of hearts and arrows. It’s kind of the middle ground between a round and princess cut diamond.

As you can see, the BGD Signature Cushion cut diamond is squarer than a round brilliant cut diamond. The corners are softer and the upper half is more pillow like. Hence the name “cushion cut” and it clearly exhibits a very nice hearts pattern. The light performance is right up there at the top of the scale!

The reason we’re able to create a hearts pattern in this modified cushion brilliant is because Brian designed the diamond with 8 pavilion facets. He also modified the facet structure on both the upper and lower halves, to maximize light performance.

Truth be told, the hearts pattern is kind of an added bonus. The real goal was to create an incredibly beautiful cushion cut diamond, which exhibits a high volume of light return. In the process, Brian realized that it would also be possible to cut the diamonds to exhibit hearts and arrows.

Realize that hearts and arrows patterns in round and cushion cut diamonds are a by-product of exceptional cutting. When the degree of optical precision is cut to the highest standard, it produces a pattern of hearts and arrows. The goal then is to cut Brian Gavin Signature diamonds to the highest standard, while the creation of hearts and arrows is secondary.

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